Why you should go vertical: The underrated way to transform your landscape photos

First published:
May 20, 2025
Updated:
May 21, 2025

Why you should go vertical: The underrated way to transform your landscape photos

First published:
May 20, 2025
Updated:
May 21, 2025

All images by Philip Mowbray.

Focus Editor Philip discusses “going vertical” with your landscape and outdoor shots, why it’s a good idea, and how to shoot them.

When you think of taking a landscape shot, your first instinct might be to flip or keep the camera horizontal, and it’s easy to believe you must always have your camera in the horizontal position to get the most out of a scene.

That’s not the case.

Vertical (portrait) oriented landscape shots can be as dynamic as horizontal scenes and often make a much greater impact. Shooting a landscape in the vertical format will also challenge, not just you as the photographer, but also the viewer to perceive the scene in front of them differently.

Below, you’ll see some of my suggestions on how to shoot vertical landscapes and why it’s a good idea, along with some image examples from my portfolio.

It’s not just landscape photography, either. Going vertical for any type of outdoor photography, whether street, travel, or nature, can have the same impact.

"Shooting vertical landscapes might initially feel unfamiliar, but it’s one of the simplest ways to change how you see and shoot behind the lens."

1 Create a sense of scale by making the sky a large part of your frame

Going big with the sky in a vertical frame can significantly impact the wow factor of the image, as you’re giving the scene a much bigger sense of scale. This technique is particularly good for mountain scenes or viewpoints, as well as anything where you want to portray the wide open space of the scene.

Below are some examples from my portfolio. Make the sky at least ⅔ of the frame, and you’ll see how much impact it can make. As a bonus, these images are fantastic for editorial use as they give the image plenty of copy space (space in a photo where a designer can overlay copy, think magazines and books), so they can potentially be of more commercial value to you, too.

Valley from Grey Mare's Tail Nature Reserve in Scotland. The sky occupies a significant portion of this vertical frame, emphasising the scale of the scene

2 Let the foreground lead with a vertical frame

As much as making the sky the majority of the frame, you can go the other way too, and make the foreground the principal proportion of the frame, especially if plenty of interesting things are happening.

Below is an example from Portencross, Scotland, looking out to the Isle of Arran. The mountains in the top ⅓ of the frame make an excellent end point for the eye to draw to. Plenty is going on in the foreground, too, which makes up over ⅔ of the frame, but it’s ideal for guiding the eye (and letting it wander) toward the mountains at the top of the frame.

The rocky foreground makes up the majority of the frame, which can be very effective in a vertical composition. In this image, it allows the viewer to explore the scene before finally landing on the mountain line in the background

3 Go vertical by zooming in on landscape features

When shooting landscapes, you don’t always need your lens set at a wide angle.

Focusing on specific features within a landscape scene can create a visually interesting and unique image. I think, zooming in on a landscape scene is particularly effective with a vertical frame.

For example, I zoomed in on the mountainside in an image from Loch Skeen, Scotland. The composition, which includes water, mountains, and sky in a compact frame, works well as a balanced and abstract scene. I found it much more engaging than a wider shot.

The mountainside at Loch Skeen, Scotland. I zoomed in to a focal length of 35mm to create a stacked image of water, mountain, and sky. Stacked compositions like this work very well in a vertical frame

4 Vertical shots are ideal for leading lines

Leading lines are natural lines in a composition that guide the viewer into or through the scene. They work particularly well with vertical images.

In this example from Madeira, Portugal, I aimed to create an "edge of the world" feel to the image; reflecting the feeling I had of truly being at the edge of the earth where the cliffs meet the vast Atlantic Ocean.

The vertical line of the shore, stretching from the bottom of the cliff to the top, draws the viewer through the scene, from the foreground to the headland. This technique also, I think, emphasises the scale and space of the landscape.

At the edge of the world, Ponta do Pargo in Madeira, Portugal, the natural line of the shoreline guides the viewer's eye through the image

5 Vertical images are highly sellable and also perfect for mobile use

With most of the world glued to their mobile phones, the demand for vertical content is higher than ever due to the vertical screen format. Over the last few years, in particular, I've found that my vertical landscapes often get more engagement and interest from viewers.

When shooting, keep in mind that vertical landscape shots can lead to much more engagement, particularly in a mobile environment. They could also help with your image sales.

Atlantic flora in Porto Moniz, Madeira, Portugal. The vertical frame enhances this image due to the shape and repetition of the plants
Technical tips for shooting vertical landscapes and outdoor shots:

Use a tripod or monopod for stability

Vertical compositions—especially when including lots of sky or foreground—often require slower shutter speeds to expose correctly. A tripod helps keep things sharp, particularly in low light or when using narrow apertures for greater depth of field.

Watch out for wonky horizons

It’s much easier to accidentally tilt the horizon in a vertical frame.

Try using your camera’s electronic level or grid lines (most cameras will have that display option, just check your manual to find out where to set them) to keep everything straight, especially if there’s a strong horizon line like the sea or a mountain ridge.

Watch your focal length
Wide-angle lenses can create dramatic vertical shots, but be careful with distortion, particularly at the edges. Telephoto lenses, however, are great for compressing layers in a scene, which is perfect when zooming in on features like cliffs, ridges, or waterfalls, as discussed in the tips above.

Think in thirds, vertically
In portrait orientation, the rule of thirds still applies from top to bottom.

Placing key elements (e.g., foreground texture, mid-ground subject, sky) in vertical thirds will balance the image and guide the eye through the frame. I do this for almost all of my photographs.

Don’t rely on cropping; go vertical from the start
It can be tempting to crop a horizontal image into a vertical format, but doing so will result in a significant loss of resolution. It may prevent you from exploring better framing options. It's always best to achieve your desired composition in-camera from the beginning. Not only will this provide you with a higher quality image in terms of resolution, but it will also encourage you to improve your photography skills. Therefore, commit to composing your shots vertically through the viewfinder or screen to make the most of the format

A fishing trawler in the Irish Sea is viewed from St Bees Head in Cumbria. The vertical framing, with the sea occupying two-thirds of the frame, and the small size of the fishing boat emphasise the vastness of the sea in this photo
Suggested focal lengths for vertical landscapes

The focal length you use will affect how your vertical landscape looks and feels. Here’s what works well based on focal length, and why:

14–24mm (Ultra-Wide)
It's great for dramatic foregrounds and expansive skies. It's ideal when you want to emphasise scale or include multiple layers in the scene. Just be mindful of distortion at the edges, especially with vertical lines like trees or cliffs.

When to use:
Mountains, waterfalls, architectural landscapes, strong foreground interest.

24–35mm (Wide-Angle)
It is still wide but with less distortion than ultra-wide lenses. This is a versatile range for general vertical compositions that balance foreground and background without exaggeration.

When to use:
Coastal scenes, cityscapes, anywhere you want depth without too much stretch.

50mm (Standard)
Gives a natural perspective close to what the human eye sees. This focal length is excellent for isolated scenes or simplified compositions where you want to highlight structure or light without distortion.

When to use:
Compositions where balance is essential, and abstract shots.

70–200mm (Telephoto)
Telephone zooms are perfect for compressing elements in the frame and focusing on specific details. Because they flatten perspective, they work well in vertical shots that layer mountains, ridgelines, or trees.

When to use:
Minimalist scenes, detail, or isolated subjects in a broader landscape.

Far d'Aucanada, Alcanada, Mallorca. I used a portrait orientation to frame the lighthouse with the nearby shrubbery. As a lighthouse is generally a 'vertical' subject, it works well in a vertical frame

Final thoughts

Shooting vertical landscapes might initially feel unfamiliar, but it’s one of the simplest ways to change how you see and shoot behind the lens.

It’ll also help you push your photography skills by challenging your composition skills and opening up new creative directions. As discussed, vertical landscapes may even make your images more commercially appealing.

So next time you're out with your camera, flip it 90 degrees and try looking at the scene differently; you might be pleasantly surprised by what you see.

Once you've got a few vertical shots you’re happy with, don’t forget to upload them to your Picfair Store. Consider grouping them into an album and sharing them on social media or however you do your marketing. You never know who might be looking for precisely the kind of image you’ve just created.

Save 50% on Picfair Plus with the code UPGRADE-50
Click to Redeem